双语阅读 | 长江下游第一别墅，绝美景致！

网上有一张空中俯瞰美龄宫的图片非常火爆。

从空中俯瞰南京的美龄宫，它像是一串巨大的金黄色项链，中心的吊坠部分，就是蓝绿色琉璃瓦的美龄宫，被美国前驻华大使司徒雷登称为“远东第一别墅”。

An online picture overlooking Mei-ling Palace recently went viral.

From the air, the whole premises take a shape of a giant emerald golden necklace. The pendant part in the center is Mei-ling Palace roofed with blue-green glazed tiles, the "Best Villa in Far East" as described by John Leighton Stuart, the former United States ambassador to China.

关于美龄宫其实一直有不少流传：

About Mei-ling Palace, there are a lot of anecdotes about it:

有人说“项链”造型，是蒋介石送给宋美龄的一个礼物；有人说当时建造花了百万银元，还有传说一片瓦的单价高达5000美金，导致民间反对声不断……

Someone said that 'necklace' is a gift from Chiang Kai-shek, the former president of ROC, to Soong Mei-ling (Madame Chiang); others revealed a million silver dollars were spent on this project with even some exaggerations on purportedly USD5,000 per piece of tiles that had resulted in nonstop opposition of the civil society…

“美龄宫”，其实官方正式的名称叫“小红山原国民政府主席官邸”。

'Mei-ling Palace' has its official name: 'Xiaohongshan Executive Mansion for the former president of the National Government'. 

修建美龄宫，其实是宋美龄的主意。

It was actually the ideal of Madame Chiang to build this mansion.

1929年6月，宋美龄跟随蒋介石参加孙中山灵柩的奉安大典。在路途中，她在中山陵西南侧的小红山上面，发现一块地方。

When Soong Mei-ling joined Chiang Kai-shek on the way to the funeral rites for reburial of Sun Yat-sen's casket (Feng'an Grand Ceremony) in June 1929, she found a place on top of a red hill (Xiaohongshan in Chinese), southwest of Dr. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.

这里地势高敞，视野很开阔。一边可以看到明孝陵，一边可以看到中山陵。附近还有宋美龄亲手创办的国民革命军遗族学校。

It was on a high terrain with wide views, overseeing Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum from one side, and Dr. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum from the other side. There was also the Descendants School of National Revolutionary Army nearby which was founded by her own.

美龄宫模型 Mei-ling Palace Model

当时宋美龄和蒋介石住在南京的黄埔路，是中央陆军军官学校里的一栋西式小楼。看到这块地后，她便向蒋介石提出：能不能在这个地方造一个度假别墅？不光谒陵途中可以歇脚休息，周末的时候也可以到这个地方来度假。

At then, this couple were living in a western building inside R.O.C. Military Academy on Huangpu Road, Nanjing. As seeing this land, she proposed to her husband. "Will it be possible to build a villa resort here that we can stop by on the way to the mausoleum or simply for the weekends?"

1930年秋，蒋介石向总理陵园管理委员会提出：“拟建陵园小红山建筑别墅”。

In the autumn of 1930, Chiang Kai-shek proposed to the Managing Board of Dr. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum that 'a villa complex to be built on Xiaohongshan of the Mausoleum'.

2800㎡的度假别墅 2800㎡ Villa Resort

美龄宫占地大概120多亩，建筑面积2800平方米左右。主体上分成三层。

Covering an area of 80,000 square meters, floor area 2,800 square meters, Mei-ling Palace has a three-story building as its main structure.

侍卫室（一层）Guard room (first floor)

中式厨房（一层）Chinese Kitchen (first floor)

底层有接待秘书的办公室、厨房、锅炉房、侍卫寝室等。

There are reception secretary office, kitchen, boiler room and bodyguard bedroom on the first floor.

会客室（二层）Meeting room (second floor)

宴会厅（二层）Banquet hall (second floor)

观凤台（二层室外）Guanfeng Tai (literally, 'phoenix terrace') (second floor outdoor)

第二层是蒋宋主要的起居空间，包括了会客室、宴会厅、蒋介石的办公室，以及室外的一个观凤台。

The second floor is the living space of the couple, including a meeting room, a banquet hall, Chiang’s office and an outdoor terrace, Guanfeng Tai.

卧室和餐厅（三层）Bedroom and dining room (third floor)

礼拜堂“凯歌堂”（三层）Chapel 'kaige Hall' (third floor)

第三层是蒋宋夫妇的卧室、书房，和一个小餐厅。还配置了一个做礼拜用的小教堂，叫“凯歌堂”。

The third floor is the bedroom, study and a small restaurant for the couple. There is also a small chapel for worshiping God, called 'Kaige Hall'.

建筑风格：西洋骨，中国皮

Architectural Style: Western Skeleton, Chinese Skin

美龄宫的设计师，叫赵志游。他的身份很特别，是当时的南京市的工务局局长，用现在的话说，是首都规划局的局长兼住建委主任。

Mei-ling's design named Zhao Zhiyou was a person in high position. He was then the Secretary of Works in Nanjing, to put it in today's words, the Director of Capital Planning Commission and the Head of Housing and Construction Commission.

赵志游早年留学法国，在巴黎学习市政和土木工程，他同时也是同盟会的成员，与蒋宋夫妇私交甚好。把工程交给他来设计，蒋宋夫妇也比较放心。

Zhao Zhiyou studied municipal and civil engineering in Paris in his early years. As a member of the Chinese Revolutionary League, he was personally acquainted with Chiang’s family that had reassured this couple for their heartfelt entrustment.

美龄宫剖面测绘图 Section Drawing of Mei-ling Palace

1927年，国民政府建都南京，推出了《首都计划》，为了彰显民族自信，重要建筑要采用“中国固有之形式”。

In 1927, the National Government proclaimed Nanjing as its capital with promulgation of Capital Plan in which all important architectures were required to adopt the ‘inherent Chinese styles’ thus to demonstrate the self-confidence of the whole nation.

既要参考中国传统复兴的建筑式样，又要考虑宋美龄的西化的生活方式，所以美龄宫采用了一种中西合璧式的巧妙做法，也被叫做“西洋骨，中国皮”。

Taking into consideration of the traditionally rejuvenated architectures in balance with the westernized lifestyle of Madame Chiang, an ingenious practice was thereby created, namely, ‘Western Skeleton, Chinese Skin’. 

中——

§  外观模仿清式宫殿建筑的大屋顶，顶上覆盖蓝绿色琉璃瓦；

§  门廊、腰檐（屋檐）部分，也覆盖上琉璃瓦片，整个流光溢彩、耀人眼目。

Chinese elements:

§  Exterior replica of Qing Dynasty Palace, featuring gran-roofs and glazed tiles;

§  Porches, eaves and ‘waist eaves’ (eave-like parts on the lower side of the façade) were all paved with glazed tiles to create a glittering effect of colors. 

西——

§  主体结构钢筋混凝土、黄色耐火砖外墙，是西方建筑常用；

§  内部装修、设施也非常西化，大面积的落地钢窗等，都是西化的体现。

Western elements:

§  Reinforced concrete used for the main structure, and yellowish firebricks for the exterior walls, which were commonly seen in western architectures;

§  Interior designs and fixtures, such as the large area of floor-to-ceiling steel windows, were quite westernized. 

女性气质浓厚的房子

A House with a Strong Feminine Traits

有不少人说，美龄宫是一座很有女性气质的房子。

一般中国传统建筑中的装饰图案多是龙，而美龄宫却到处都有“凤”，让人联想到曾经的女主人宋美龄。

Many people said that Mei-ling Palace is a house blessed with femininity.

For example, the decorative patterns in traditional Chinese houses are mostly patriarchal dragons, while 'phoenixes' dominate everywhere in that palace, making us associated with its former hostess, Soong Mei-ling.

琉璃瓦顶的屋檐，每一个勾头滴水上都雕刻了一只凤凰，足以代表宋美龄当时的身份。

On each eave tile of the glazed roof engraved a phoenix, speaking for the dignity of the hostess.

室外二层的露台，叫”观凤台”，共有34根汉白玉石柱，每根柱上都刻画着凤凰图案。而1930年设计房子的时候，恰巧宋美龄是34岁，真是十分巧合。

The terrace on the second floor outside is called 'Guanfeng Tai', stood 34 alabaster pillars carved with these empress figures, the number of which coincides the age of Soong (34 years old) then at the time of project designing in 1930.

南边门廊的天花，使用了中国传统的旋子彩画（为宫廷常见的图案，仅次于和玺彩画）。赵志游邀请了当时著名的工笔画大师陈之佛，专门绘制了蓝底的云雀琼花图案，色彩绚丽，非常精美。

The celestial florals on the southern porch are tangent circle patterns (next to dragon patters often used in royal palaces), for which Chen Zhifo, a famous master of Meticulous Brushwork, was invited. Featured skylark and guelder roses on blue ground, his drawings appeared to be exquisitely colorful.

室内摩登精致、预算超支

The Over-budgeted Interior Design, Impeccably Stylish

蒋介石对宋美龄是很尊重的，在美龄宫的装修上，基本都由宋美龄一手包办。

The respect that Chiang had paid to Soong was most visible, as it could be seen in the decorations that were solely taken care of by her.

光建美龄宫就花了6年时间，1931年春天动工，1936年下半年才竣工验收。预算24万银元，最后竣工超出了50%，花了36万多，算是严重超支。

It took almost six years in building the palace that began in the spring of 1931 and completed in 1936, having spent 360,000 silver dollars as compared to 240,000 budget, a serious cost overrun by 50% increase.

室内所用的大理石、马赛克瓷砖都是从国外进口的。

Marbles and mosaic tiles used indoors were all imported.

美龄宫里的电灯、电话、电铃一应俱全，尤其是电灯，壁灯、顶灯等等，数量众多，款式摩登，也都是进口国外，代表了那个时代最高等级。

The palace was fully furnished with electric lights, telephones and bells, particularly abundant in imported lamps everywhere on the walls, ceilings etc., the highest level of its kind at that time.

美龄宫地暖设备

Floor Heating System

宴会厅采用的地暖设施，是由底层锅炉房烧煤加热，进行集中式供暖，在当时是极为罕见。

Floor heating system using for the banquet hall was supplied by coal-burning boiler on the ground floor, a centralized type very rare in 1930's.

宋美龄对这个工程投入很多，有一种家庭主妇式、事无巨细的关注。很多材料、施工，都要一一过目。

Song paid great efforts, a kind of all-matter materfamilias care on material selection and construction process.

她对卫生特别地讲究，浴缸款式、大小，搭配的毛巾架、肥皂盒等等，都要符合她自己的生活习惯。

She was quite dainty on sanitation, for example, the style and size of the bathtub, its matching towel rack, soap box etc. that must be in taste and catering to her habits.

有时候工人做的颜色款式，宋美龄不满意，就反复修改，前后多次拆建。浴室瓷砖的颜色就改了两次。

There was at times an unsatisfying working piece either for its color or its pattern, for which she would have it corrected or rebuilt. The dominant hue of her bathroom tiles had been changed twice.

美龄宫即将竣工的时候，南京《民生报》突然爆料说，主席官邸预算达到了100万银元，还需要财政部每个月拨款3万银元。这个消息出来了以后，舆论哗然。

When it was almost completed, Min Sheng Daily released a scoop by saying the budget of Chairperson’s mansion was already up to one million silver dollars for which Ministry of Finance had to fund 30,000 dollars monthly. This piece of news provoked a public outcry.

九一八事变和一二八事变之后，国家内忧外患，经济急剧下滑，100万银元在当时是一个天文数字。同时期国民政府的另一位主席林森也修建了度假别墅，他仅仅花了2万银元。最后，蒋介石只好自己掏腰包垫付了超支的部分费用。

After the September 18th Incident (the seizure of Shenyang in 1931 by the Japanese invaders as a step toward their occupation of the entire Northeast) and the January 28 Incident (the sudden attack of Japanese army on the 19th Route Army of KMT in Shanghai in 1932 as a way to bully the Nanjing Government into submission), the entire nation was suffering from its sharply declining economy and crises. One million silver dollars was an astronomical amount, as compared to 20,000 silver dollars spent by Lin Sen, another Chairperson of the National Government, for his villa resort. Thus, the overspending part had to be covered by Chiang personally.

蒋介石宋美龄在户外野餐 Outdoor Picnic, Soong Mei-ling and Chiang Kai-shek

蒋宋夫妇生活方式不同

The Couple Had Different Lifestyles

宋美龄本身是一个非常西化的女性。她出生时宋家已是上海有名的富裕人家，10岁就跟随二姐宋庆龄赴美读书，20岁左右才回到上海。

Born with a silver spoon in her mouth, Soong had been westernized by following her second elder sister, Soong Ching-Ling (the wife of Sun Yat-sen) to study in the United States at the age of 10, and returned to Shanghai around the age of 20.

在美国长期所受的教育，使她的思维方式和生活方式都非常西化了。她生活作息的时间，对卫生的讲究，跟蒋介石都有着巨大差别。

Due to her mode of thinking and lifestyle shaped by long-term education in the US, her daily schedules and fastidiousness on sanitation were sheer different from Chiang's.

宋美龄全家合照，后排右一宋美龄 Family Photo of Soong's, back row first from the right is Soong Mei-ling

两个人的作息时间完全不同：一个晚睡晚起，一个早睡早起。所以她和蒋介石的卧室是分开的，她使用大卧室，蒋介石使用次卧室。

This couple had totally different biological clocks, one early to bed early to rise, and the other, keeping later hours. So they didn't share the same bedroom – hers was the host bedroom, Chiang's the secondary.

宋美龄喜爱国画 Soong was in favor of Chinese Paintings

蒋介石每天早上6点起床，而宋美龄一般要到10点甚至11点钟才起。起床后，宋美龄还需要经过全身的按摩，梳妆打扮，时间要长达4-5个小时才能结束。

Chiang got up at 6am, while Soong would lie in until 10am or 11am, followed by a whole body massage and dressing up for another four to five hours.

二人习惯不同 The couple had different habits

宋美龄每天早晨标配的是果汁、酸奶、煎蛋，吐司是高纤的，必须有新鲜水果；蒋介石则喜欢吃中餐，每天早上是油条、稀饭，还要摆上几道家乡小菜。

The standard breakfast for Soong was juice, yogurt, omelet and high-fiber toast, with fresh fruits, while Chiang went for typical Chinese one, Youtiao (deep-fried dough stick), congee topped with some pickles from his hometown.

美龄宫呈项链状，并非蒋介石原意

The Necklace-shaped Palace was Not the Idea of Chiang

有人传说，项链是蒋介石送给宋美龄一种爱意的礼物。这其实是一个美丽的误会。

It is said that the necklace was a love gift given by Chiang to Soong, but it was a beautiful mistake.

美龄宫俯瞰测绘图 Vertical View of Meiling Palace

从现存档案和设计图纸来看，建造美龄宫是在1930年前后，“项圈”上的梧桐树早在5年前修中山陵的时候就已经种下了。

From the existing archives and design drawings, we can see the construction of Meiling Palace was around 1930, but the 'necklaced' phoenix trees were planted five years earlier when Dr. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum was being built.

1930年代的美龄宫 Meiling Palace in 1930's

而且“项圈”之所以形成，是因为车道改从正门两侧分上的这个设计，这是宋美龄的主意，因为她怕吵，觉得“颇嫌喧闹”。

The 'Necklace-shape' was formed due to the design of driveways from the two sides of the main entrance, which was the idea of Soong who were afraid of the "disturbing noises".

所以，送“项链”的故事其实是人们一种浪漫的臆想，并不是蒋介石最初的愿望。

Therefore, the story of giving 'necklace' was actually a romantic imagination, not Chiang Kai-shek's original wish.

最后的辉煌与衰败

The Last Glory and Decline

美龄宫建了六年，真正的使用时间只有不到三年。

Meiling Palace had been built for six years, but its real use less than three years.

美龄宫初建时周围环境

The surroundings of Meiling Palace when it was first built.

美龄宫竣工几个月后，抗战爆发，蒋宋夫妇就搬到了中山陵四方城的一栋平房里面。由于日军飞机经常飞临中山陵的上空，为了安全起见，美龄宫外墙一度被刷成了黑色。

A few months after its completion, the Anti-Japanese War broke out so the couple moved to a bungalow in Sifang City, Dr. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, while the palace had to be painted in black exteriorly lest it be spotted by flying over Japanese bombers.

美龄宫最辉煌、使用频率最高，是1945年到1948年间。抗战胜利国民政府还都之后，蒋宋回到南京，每到周末，夫妇二人会到这里度假，举办宴会、舞会，招待各方宾客。

The glorious time for the most frequent use of Meiling Palace was from 1945 to 1948, when Chiang and Soong went back to Nanjing after the war. Every weekend, the couple would come here for vacation, holding banquets, dances and entertaining guests from all walks of life.

蒋介石把三楼原来的会客厅，改造成了礼拜堂，叫做凯歌堂。周末的时候，国民政府当中的高级将领，以及蒋宋夫妇的亲属当中的基督徒，就会到这个地方做礼拜。

The meeting room on the third floor was refurbished into a chapel called 'Kaige Hall' where KMT senior generals and their Christian relatives would come here over weekends.

当时的美国驻华大使司徒雷登，美军顾问团当中的马歇尔将军，也会到礼拜堂来做礼拜。礼拜前后，蒋介石就会带着这些将领，在会客室一起商讨大事，比如美国的军援，经济资助，与共产党的和谈协议等等。

It was also a place for John Leighton Stuart, the former United States ambassador to China, and General George Catlett Marshall of MMAG, to be present at the chapel, before and after which some discussions went underway for big issues like US military and financial aids, peace talks with the Communist Party etc. with Chiang Kai-shek.

1930年代的蒋介石和宋美龄 Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling in 1930's

他的夫人宋美龄，则在二楼的宴会厅和大露台上举办宴会、舞会，同时招待高级将领的家属们。

And his wife, Soong Mei-ling, would hold banquets and dancing parties in the banquet hall and the second floor grand terrace to entertain the families of senior generals.

美龄宫的使用一直到1948年底。1949年1月，蒋介石离开南京，再也没有回来过。

Meiling Palace had been in use until the end of 1948. In January 1949, Chiang Kai-shek left Nanjing and never came back.

1984年3月，美龄宫作为介绍民国历史的展览馆对外开放，室内陈设如旧。

In March 1984, the Meiling Palace was opened to the public as an exhibition place introducing the history of the Republic of China with all its interior furnishings remain untouched.

一直到2012年，美龄宫重新进行了翻修，参照当年修造的图纸、及前人留下的回忆录，旧物复原。并于2013年开始对外开放。

It was until 2012 when the palace was overhauled, by referring to the drawings and memoirs of that time and reopened to the public in 2013.

如今，这栋折射民国时期审美、包含醇厚的历史文化内涵的建筑，依然安静地坐落在南京东郊

Today, this building, which reflects the aesthetic view of the Republic of China containing rich historical and cultural connotations, is still situated quietly in the eastern suburbs of Nanjing.

 

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[中文原文及图像来源：艺术生活色彩，今日头条，百度]