You know that funny look people give you when you say you are going to a major tourist destination in China over a public holiday? Like you’re nuts? Well we got that a lot when we decided to do the Beijing Bustle (Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace and the Great Wall) over Qing Ming with two kids aged seven and two. With our oldest on spring break and ‘FOMO’ (Fear Of Missing Out), we decided to carpe diem anyway. Turns out, the (greater) crowds weren’t that noticeable and the only real hassle was the traffic getting to and from Mutianyu (the part of the wall we visited). Aside from the ‘Bustle’, we also wandered through the charming Hutongs, and pitstopped at the ‘Birds Nest’ Olympic Stadium. Unfortunately we skipped the Ming Tombs and Lama Temple originally on our itinerary as with relatively young kids and long days of sightseeing, some chill out time was warranted for naps or to simply swim at the hotel. We left satisfied having ticked the main things off our bucket list!
Getting There and Around
On good advice, we took the fast train from Shanghai to Beijing and were pleased. Though it takes almost 5 hours as opposed to a two-hour flight, there are no delays and you don’t waste travel time going to/from airports or waiting around. Kids can nap comfortably if necessary (nb. if they are under 1.2m their ticket is free so long as they are adult accompanied, but they don't get their own seat). Another advantage is we were picked up at the station in Beijing by our guide, loaded our luggage in the car and commenced sightseeing immediately. Within the city, using the public train network will save you money with your guide. However with a two year old, we were advised to get a car and driver as there is a lot of walking, and a pram can be a hassle at some destinations. Together with napping needs, this option suited us very well and also allowed us to be flexible. You will certainly need a car and driver to get to the Great Wall.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Lee Gardens Aparthotel, just round the corner from Wangfujing snack and walking street and would highly recommend this area. Lined with big name 4 to 5 star hotels, it was easy to dart out to get breakfast at if you don't have it included. Our two-bedroom apartment was very spacious, clean, and had a kitchen and laundry facilities. Our children enjoyed the pool and we also used the gym. A small mall is within walking distance and has a Starbucks and Dadong restaurant. Molly Malone’s (an Irish pub chain) a few doors down catered to our evening drink needs and also had child-friendly food.
What to See
Aside from the above, we would have liked to see Beihai Park or stroll around the 798 Art Zone. An evening at Sanlitun to check out the bar scene would also have been nice if we had a babysitter. You have a few options of where to go on the Great Wall, but we chose Mutianyu as its supposedly less touristy, and the toboggan down is great fun! Little ones from about 20 months on can go down together with an adult, if both are game! (Our toddler was 26 months).
What to Eat
Duck, duck and more duck! It is absolutely scrumptious, and the best place (in our opinion) is Dadong, though you are spoilt for choice. We also tried the famous “Made in China” restaurant at the Grand Hyatt and preferred Dadong’s less fatty duck, overall menu, ambience and food presentation. Other food we tried were Beijing dumplings, meat pies, noodles, the local beer ‘Yanjing’ and our guide brought rice crispy street snacks for our kids which they loved. ‘Scorpions on a stick’ or snake at Wangfujing might be on some people’s bucket lists but not ours! Our kids enjoyed the food (especially the duck) and a special treat was different flavoured ice-cream in the shape of a rose purchased on our guide’s recommendation whilst strolling down Nan Luo Gu Xiang (Hutongs). We would have liked to dine at Black Sesame Kitchen, but it was shut for renovations.
Travel Tips with Young ‘Uns
1. If you can, avoid public holidays to travel especially to the Great Wall or go very early around 8am. We were delayed an hour more each way.
2. Though you can navigate the sights yourself, getting a private guide is worth it as it saves time, they have ready information and can answer specific questions. They may also have practical ways to bypass crowds and traffic (ours had a pass to drive further up to the wall instead of having to take a commuter bus). With little kids, one who is flexible and willing to change itineraries is preferable.
3. Not everywhere is comfortable to take a pram so have a front pack ready for flexibility (for instance, at the Forbidden City, you will have to carry it up and down stairs and there are many cobblestoned/uneven areas).
4. The earliest you can book train tickets on C-trip is 30 days ahead of your intended date to travel. If you are travelling over a public holiday, sit at your computer the day tickets go on sale to book them first thing. We did this as soon as tickets were released and got great seats.
5. Remain flexible or leave extra time to do things especially if travelling over a public holiday. Traffic or pollution can impede plans and you might have to reschedule or reroute as so much of the sights are outdoors.
6. For the Great Wall journey, take snacks, plenty of water and entertainment for the car ride if necessary. Definitely use a front pack for an infant or toddler as prams aren’t viable. Don’t take a lot of bags up if you plan to toboggan down at Mutianyu. If travelling in hotter months, take hats and sunglasses.
