An Urban Family series where we ask a Shanghai-based somebody to tell us 5 Things specific to his or her life.
Still think wool is the fabric for the chilly season, you couldn't be more wrong. IKKI has proven that natural wool can be the lightest, softest and the most skin-friendly, beneficial fiber for babies, given the right type of wool and the appropriate production method. We sit down with IKKI’s founder Rikki (Ulrike Beier) and chatted with her about IKKI, the products, and found out about new traits from one of the oldest fabric in the world – wool.
1. A Family of ‘Wool’
IKKI was born out of a deep passion for wool and the amazing benefits it has. The passion has been transpired from four generations of my family’s legacy that is deeply imbedded in wool processing. I really want to pass on what my family has known for generations—that wool is absolutely wonderful. If I don’t do this, this passion ends with me. My great grandfather was already involved in wool scouring (wool washing) and then my grandfather started a wool processing plant in South Africa from its beginnings after arriving by ship from Germany. My father then took over the family business. They sold tops—a semi-processed form of wool ready for spinning—into the famous wool markets worldwide, like Biella (where I later would work for 7 years) in Italy and China. So, my grandfather was already travelling to China for wool. Now with the dramatic environmental issues on our planet, I have become even more passionate about making a product that is natural and sustainability driven. To be fully sustainable (and this term is often wrongly used) is very difficult, but we can make choices to improve the supply chain wherever we are. This also means educating the final consumer to make better consumer choices.
2. From Rikki to IKKI
Ikki was my nickname as a small child. The slogan “Small but Brave” is influenced by my faith, but also represents the vulnerability that babies have coming into the world. Yet, they are brave with so much to overcome. It is also an encouragement to us all; it’s a reminder that while we may feel small sometimes, we are brave and can achieve great things.
3. “I think that Chinese consumers are the most sophisticated in the world”
I found myself in Shanghai working for a startup, overseeing wool factories and developing fabrics for men’s suiting. I always knew I would have my own business one day and I saw a demand for good, certified products for infants that were not readily available here. Being that I am a textile engineer meant that I could develop just that. The IKKI range is basic and simple in design, because the focus is on the benefits of the exclusive fabric. I think that Chinese consumers are the most sophisticated in the world. They are really starting to question authenticity and want to know the story behind brands. Also, I feel a sense of ethical responsibility to sell in the country that I produce in. While we also export, I ultimately would love to be producing in every country I am selling in. This is a big challenge, but one I am willingly tackling.
4. "The benefits of wool for babies is mind-blowing"
There is an commonly underlying misconception that wool is scratchy. Course wools are scratchy which does not make them bad; it just means that those wools are not appropriate for apparel. We use Australian merino wool, which is finer than other wools and when processed correctly, is super soft. It is my aim to create a 100 percent wool product that has a superb hand feel, so that mothers can finally benefit from all wool has to offer. It is scientifically proven that babies that sleep with wool when compared to any other fibre, sleep better. Wool is also the only fibre in the world that creates a microclimate around the body, adapting to the temperature surrounding the body naturally. This is amazing and something I want the world to know. Overheating is a big issue for babies so wool is a good solution. There are numerous benefits; it absorbs toxins in the environment, it naturally protects against UV and is 100 percent biodegradable. This is just so amazing and it’s important that we are aware of the impact the products we consume have on the world. Of course we can still improve and this is what we are continuously trying to do with our partners in the supply chain.
5. Wearing Wool on Red Hot Summer Days
Generally people don’t know that wool is also a summer fibre and the best fibre to use in sports. Although many big sportswear brands have caught on, the general consumer is still unaware. We educate through our products and host IKKI education forums to bring awareness to the benefits of wool. It is amazing that wool is the only fibre that naturally creates a microclimate around the body and adapts to the temperature around the body, cooling when you are warm, and warming when you feel cool. For a specific fabric weight, wool gives comfort over a range of temperatures. This combined with its ability to absorb large amounts of moisture before feeling damp make for good apparel in warm/sweaty conditions as well as deep Winter.
More than this, however, we want consumers to be aware of the impact of their consumer choices. We want to create a transparent supply chain and have a sense of accountability towards the final consumer. However, the only way the consumer has expectations on the supply chain is if they are educated on it. In a way, there are many factors going against IKKI: The perception of wool for example or the fast fashion brands that are selling really cute, but cheap baby clothes that make for a questionable supply chain. I really believe with all my heart that something has to change. People always say that not everyone can afford more expensive baby products because they grow so quickly, but the fact is that it is a change in mindset. We are finding that there is a shift in consumer spending. Our clients are not only the super rich, but rather those that are shifting their lifestyles and becoming more conscious. Wool is long-lasting and can be passed down from generation to generation. We believe in buying less and buying better. We need to improve the status quo of the supply chain – it is not perfect, but in China there are great mills adhering to high standards locally and internationally. I want to support them here in China and am willing to pay more to do this. Gone are the days that China was a cheap option for processing. This means being willing to pay a higher price so that no corners are being cut, which in turn means we need to educate our consumers to have expectations from the products they buy so that it no longer becomes an issue of where they have been produced rather an issue of transparency and standards being met. The supply chain can continuously improve world wide.
We have just launched the IKKI for Life campaign where you can send back your used products and get a discount on the next size up. We then gift the second-hand products to children in need. Ultimately, it comes down to an awareness of our consumer behavior. We do have an impact with how we buy.
6. “You should always know why you are doing something.”
Regardless of the industry, I think the most important thing is to have vision and to see a purpose in that vision. You should know why you are doing something; otherwise you can’t persevere over time. I stopped working for corporate because I was no longer satisfied working without a positive mission to make an impact on society. I want IKKI to ultimately become a one for one. Currently, we donate a percentage of sales. We are all deceived by the fact that we as individuals can make little difference but I believe that having 100% power over only our own choices means we had better make good ones. I believe that our passion for something has ripple effects. So, what do I like most? I think the fact that I am working on something I am truly passionate about. I hope my grandfather would be proud and that our legacy lives on long after me.
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